Orchid Care Blog

Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 16:39:00 +0000

The beginner must watch his plants carefully, ...

The beginner must watch his plants carefully, combining all his knowledge of orchids with solicitous observation and a strong admixture of green thumb.

Experimenting with orchids is extremely precarious because their life cycle is so long, five to seven years from seed to bloom, and the cause of damage may have been forgotten in the six or eight months before it is evident.

The grower should vary heat conditions to balance other conditions of the house and plants.

As in most native habitats, the temperature can be some degrees lower in winter than in summer.

This is another point on which there is difference of opinion.

Some growers increase the heat a bit during the winter day, reducing it again at night to sustain balance.

As was pointed out in Chapter 3, the ideal set-up for growing the widely differing genera would be the three-house system.

One house would be for orchids tolerating 45 to 48 degrees F. minimum night temperature in the winter-Cymbidiums, some Laelias and Cypripediums,

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 16:34:00 +0000

Odontoglossums, aristocrats of South America, are normally...

Odontoglossums, aristocrats of South America, are normally found at heights of from 5,000 to 12,000 feet.

They require cool, shaded conditions at all times and for this reason they are a little difficult to raise with other species.

Mil-tonias are found at heights up to 8000 feet in Brazil, Costa Rica, and Colombia.

They require shaded sunlight.

Deciduous Dendro-biums, native to India and the Philippines, must be protected from the sun during the growing season.

Cypripediums, usually called lady's slippers, are found in many lands and in a great variety of climates.

Consequently they like differing amounts of sun, but all must be protected from burning.

Generally the mottled-leaved types require more shade and more heat.

The problem of the amount of heat is closely allied to the matter of light.

Most climates in the temperate zone require artificial heat in the orchid house to supplement that provided by the sun.

Automatic controls simplify the matter, but they do not take the place of brainwork.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 16:29:00 +0000

Sudden temperature changes should be avoided.

Among the...

Sudden temperature changes should be avoided.

Among the sun-worshipers are the Vandas, natives of India, the Philippines, and some Pacific islands.

They will not thrive without adequate sun, and they must have corresponding amounts of heat and water.

Care must be exercised to keep water from remaining in the growing crown.

The evergreen Dendrobiums, native to the Indian Islands, and Oncidiums, from Central and South America, are also sun-worshipers.

Phalaenopsis, the lovely white 'bride's orchids' from the Philippines and the Eastern Archipelago, respond well to sun, but must not be overexposed.

A warm, moist atmosphere, with plenty of air, is best for this species.

Zygopetalums, found in Brazil, Venezuela, and the Guianas, require moderate exposure to sun.

As a rule orchids from mountainous regions or from the temperate zone need protection from direct sun.

Cymbidiums, natives of the Himalayas, require controlled sun and cool conditions with abundant air.

These spray orchids, with their Joseph's-coat range of colors from pink, yellow, green, and brown to the rare pure white, are difficult to grow under glass because they like their 'heads hot and feet cold'; but with careful observation a proper balance can be worked out.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 16:24:00 +0000

There is the further difficulty of each ...

There is the further difficulty of each species' having its own light requirements.

Quick reference to conditions in the native homes of the species that the amateur is likely to acquire will illustrate the point.

Cattleyas, native to Central and South America, are found hanging on trees in the tropical rain forests.

The burning sun of midday is usually kept off the plant by foliage directly overhead.

The grower, guided by this knowledge, lets Cattleyas be exposed to the sun, but provides shade in summer during the warmest part of the day, for sunburn must be avoided.

The increased exposure to sun necessitates a corresponding increase in humidity to prevent the pseudobulbs from shriveling.

Laelias, showy natives of Mexico and Central America, are found growing on rocks in the open sun.

They are closely related to Cattleyas, but require larger amounts of both light and air.

The grower should find a place for them in the sun, right up under the glass.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 16:19:00 +0000

Once the amateur has made the choice ...

Once the amateur has made the choice between 'soft' and 'hard' methods, the subsequent treatment must be consistent.

If much sun is provided, more moisture and air will be required.

If the plants are grown with minimum sun they will require less moisture, but an increase in ventilation may be needed to keep the air sweet.

Too great an increase in heat during the winter is a common error of orchid growers.

Plants store up energy during the daylight hours and give off or transpire energy at night.

Increase in night heat increases transpiration.

Shorter periods of daylight lessen the manufacture of energy.

If the plant loses more energy at night than it is able to store during the day, obviously it will suffer.

Orchids are very susceptible to shock of any kind, and they take considerable time to recover-if they ever do. This danger must be borne in mind regarding sunburn, chilling, or energy deficit.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 16:14:00 +0000

This method, while marring the appearance of ...

This method, while marring the appearance of the plant, is said by its proponents to give increased bloom.

Too much light must be avoided, since it will burn the plant and growth will be interrupted.

Dry, yellow flower sheaths will at times result from such sunburn, and incipient buds will become steamy and subject to destruction by wet rot.

Cutting off the very top of such a sheath with a sharp knife will allow air to reach the bud and may save it. The claim that growing orchids 'hard' increases flower growth appears logical if the conditions under which orchids grow in their natural state are considered: the natural environment is 'hard.

' It must be remembered, however, that nature controls sunlight in a way difficult to approximate in the greenhouse.

Even in those areas where certain varieties grow in so-called 'full sun/ it will be found that drifting clouds give a protection that is absent under intensely directed light in the greenhouse.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 16:09:00 +0000

One of the things that make the ...

One of the things that make the growing of orchids unique and stimulating is the spirited controversy that arises over every aspect of culture.

One of the many points on which there is no incontroversial procedure is the matter of how much light should be admitted.

It must be decided whether to grow the plants 'soft' or 'hard,' to use the parlance of experienced growers.

The amateur must make his own choice.

To grow 'soft' means to shade the plants from the sun so that the leaves remain a beautiful dark green.

There can be no doubt that this method produces the most beautiful plants, but the quality of bloom is a question that cannot be answered so definitely.

In 'soft' conditions care must be exercised not to shade to the point where flower growth will be hindered.

To grow 'hard' means to allow so much light that the leaves have decided overtones of yellow.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 16:04:00 +0000

Using the energy provided by light, the ...

Using the energy provided by light, the green leaf chlorophyll transforms the carbon dioxide from the air and the mineral salts from moisture into sugar and other carbohydrates.

These energy carbohydrates are stored until needed either for rebuilding plant tissue or for flowering.

The pseudobulbs of some types, the large leathery leaves of others, and the slender grass-like leaves of orchids lacking pseudobulbs are the storage reservoirs.

The cycle will continue only if the grower devotes the utmost attention to the special requirements of the orchid.

The reward for his devotion comes when the brilliant bloom and beauty of the tropics is reproduced in the greenhouse.

No hard and fast rules can be set down for the beginner to follow.

It has been said that each grower in his own greenhouse, within limitations established by the plants, is a law unto himself.

The amount of each element in the light-heat-moisture-air formula will vary according to season, experience, and variety.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 15:49:00 +0000

The first would be for the cool-growing ...

The first would be for the cool-growing orchids like Cymbidiums, some Cypripediums, and Odontoglossums, and would be kept at a minimum winter temperature of 48 degrees F. at night.

The second, which might be called the intermediate house, would be kept at 60 to 65 degrees, a temperature suitable for Cattleya and allied genera.

The third, or hothouse proper, would have a minimum night winter temperature of from 68ø to 700, making it suitable for Phalaenopsis, Vandas, Dendrobiums, and the mottled-leaf slippers like Cypripedium Maudiae.

Most amateurs, however, lack space and resources for three houses, and with ingenuity one house can be departmentalized.

A section away from the source of heat and infrequently pene trated by the sun should be selected for the orchids preferring coolness.

One bench might be left without piping for this purpose.

Warmer-growing plants can be placed in the warmest part of the greenhouse.

Plants requiring direct sun, like Laelias and Cattleya gigas, can be placed right up against the glass.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 15:44:00 +0000

For the larger house in a mild ...

For the larger house in a mild climate it may be operated by a boiler or Arcola type of heater.

Where temperatures drop below zero the pipe should be four inches, and heat should be supplied by an oil or coal boiler.

The gravity system is probably not practical for the larger house.

In such circumstances a circulating pump can be used to force the water through the pipe.

The pump must be kept in good condition, for, if it should freeze, water will not circulate and the boiler may explode.

The chimney should be taller than the roof and designed to keep injurious fumes from the house.

Many amateurs use the shed housing their heater as a potting shed.

It is conveniently placed for this purpose and will be warm in winter.

These plans are not for the 'ideal' greenhouse, if there is any such thing.

The ideal, of course, would be three greenhouses.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 15:39:00 +0000

From B the water falls to the ...

From B the water falls to the pipe (D-D), which is level with the ground, causing equal amounts of water to flow to both points.

Water then flows from D down both sides of the house and back to F under the same drop as it did from A to B. From F there is another drop back to the heater and the process is repeated.

A water outlet (8), outside the shut-off valve, is provided for watering the house.

The 'closed' system is similar to the 'open' system outlined above, but has a reduction valve from the city system and should have a 'bleeder' so that the maximum water pressure in the pipe does not exceed 28 pounds pressure per square inch.

The disadvantage of this layout is that heat may be lost by backing up into the city system.

The side-arm heater system with two-inch pipe is only suited for a small house in a mild climate.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 15:34:00 +0000

The best pipe for this or any ...

The best pipe for this or any system is the one and a half or two-inch hot-dipped galvanized, rust-resistant type.

Black pipe is a good conductor of heat but is more susceptible to rust from the constant damp.

In the sketch (Plate vn) the gas enters through a valve (1) and goes to the solenoid valve (2) (controlled by the thermostat [11]).

From there it goes to the copper coil side-arm heater (coils should be at least % inch), which is controlled by a pilot light.

Water enters the heater through the shut-off valve (7), which is closed after the pipes are filled.

A valve (6) is used to drain the system.

The water passes through the coils and rises as it is heated to the highest point (A).

As the water heats, it expands, forcing some up into the expansion tank (9), which is open to the air at 10. Gravity carries the water to B, a drop of one-half in three inches being allowed.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 15:29:00 +0000

A type of gas floor furnace, well ...

A type of gas floor furnace, well vented and with the flame not directly open to the house, has been found satisfactory for the small greenhouse.

Humidity must be maintained to offset dryness.

Open gas heaters are a menace in the greenhouse, for if the flame is accidentally put out the fumes will quickly kill the plants.

Electric heaters are too drying and too concentrated for plants near by and do not provide enough warmth for plants some distance away.

More elaborate systems are required for a completely satisfactory solution of the heating problem.

For areas where the temperature does not fall below zero, hot-water systems operated by thermostatically controlled gas are very satisfactory.

Where severe winters prevail, hot-water or steam systems with coal or oil burners will be required.

There are many types from which to choose, but only one can be examined here in any detail.

The simple gravity system has been found very efficient for small greenhouses (nine by twelve feet to twelve by fifteen feet).

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 15:24:00 +0000

Heating is perhaps the most vexing problem ...

Heating is perhaps the most vexing problem concerning orchid housing.

Fear of heating failure, which may leave orchids exposed to the disastrous cold of freezing weather, causes the sleepless nights of many an orchidist.

One amateur has gone so far as to have an alarm bell rigged up in his bedroom to warn of any heating failure.

Most of the worry can be avoided if enough thought goes into a heating plan well in advance of construction.

Visits to the houses of other growers, discussions with them of the merits of different systems, conferences with a local plumber or heating expert, and investigation of available material will be worth all the time and effort so spent.

The simplest heating systems can be considered only expedients-some of them dangerous ones.

The fumes of a kerosene stove are disagreeable to humans but a few orchids in a tiny house.

In case of emergency, and many an amateur has set the alarm for the middle of the night to refill the stove against the cold.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 15:19:00 +0000

Scale and fungi have a diabolical tendency ...

Scale and fungi have a diabolical tendency to attack the part of a plant against the wall and out of reach-hence the warning that benches should be 'reach' width.

Floors should preferably be raised a few inches above the surrounding ground to provide drainage.

One or two inches of gravel over earth (round or pea gravel is most satisfactory) makes the best type of floor, since it dries out quickly on the surface while retaining moisture underneath.

Such a floor helps maintain proper humidity when it is wet down on hot days.

Walks may be of brick or rough concrete.

Durable wood walks are more comfortable to stand on and, if constructed of slats, will dry out rapidly enough.

They do, however, provide hiding places for slugs and other pests, including rats.

Aisles between benches should be wide enough so that one may walk comfortably without fear of breaking off new shoots, damaging flowers, or knocking down pots.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 10:09:00 +0000

Proper circulation of air is essential for ...

Proper circulation of air is essential for the health of the plants.

Under natural conditions drying winds keep the epiphytic roots sweet at all times.

'In captivity' the orchid roots are confined in pots and baskets, and the air of the greenhouse can easily become 'dead' and stuffy.

Air-conditioning would seem the ideal solution, but the grower must be mechanically inclined and ingenious enough to invent a system of his own, for the few available ready made systems are prohibitively expensive.

Fortunately a well-planned ventilation system can bring the desired result except in extremely dry climates, and even in such localities a proper balance between heat and moisture can bring a workable solution.

Vents placed along the roof ridge will provide sufficient air circulation.

The openings should face away from prevailing winds, since a gentle movement rather than a draft is required.

The openings may be operated by pushrods or the more elaborate worm-and-gear mechanism.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 10:04:00 +0000

A much more satisfactory shading is secured ...

A much more satisfactory shading is secured by means of lath slats supported eight to twelve inches above the roof surface.

Most orchid plants thrive best in the kind of shading provided by laths, where moving bands of sunlight alternate with bands of shadow.

Anyone who has seen orchids growing in the tropics will remember that effect of the sun.

The slat shading also efficiently moderates greenhouse temperature on blazing summer days.

An adjustable type of slat shading has been developed that varies the amount of shade to suit the season and can be removed easily for clear glass conditions in the winter (see page 39).

Some growers take an extra precaution against burning by tacking cheesecloth or sheer muslin about three inches below the ceiling inside.

There is some disadvantage in this procedure, however, since the damp cloth furnishes an almost ideal place for the growth of fungus.

The important matter of aeration is next to be considered.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 09:59:00 +0000

The plants demand sun, but only experience ...

The plants demand sun, but only experience will enable the grower to steer the fine course between enough sun and the excessive amount that will burn.

Generally speaking, the greenhouse glass may be kept clear for only a few weeks in mid-winter.

At all other times it is necessary to provide shade of one sort or another, both to avoid excessive temperature and to prevent burning.

An attempt should be made to approximate the degree of shade found in the natural habitat of the plants, where sunlight is filtered through layers of jungle growth.

The cheapest and easiest method of shading is to paint the glass on the exterior with some mixture that admits considerable light and that may be easily removed in the late fall to admit clear sun in winter.

Either a mixture of white lead and gasoline or a white casein paint that will wash off is satisfactory for this purpose.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 09:54:00 +0000

There is only one variation from standard ...

There is only one variation from standard practice in exterior painting: it is well to run the paint over the surfaces of putty and about one-eighth of an inch on to the glass in order to prolong the life of the putty.

It might be well to varnish the putty and let it dry before painting.

Paint to be used inside the greenhouse should be selected with caution.

It should be known to be non-toxic to the plants.

The constant damp makes anything soluble.

Plants are so sensitive and the possible damage so insidious that the amateur is warned not to use any doubtful paint.

Deleterious effects on orchids may not show up for six months to a year.

In the discussion of the plan so far, provision has been made for maximum sun.

There is still the problem of controlling the intensity of the sun, which is again a matter on which intense debate rages among orchidists.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 09:49:00 +0000

In glazing the roof, beds of putty ...

In glazing the roof, beds of putty should first be placed on the glass rabbets of previously primed wood roof bars, and the glass pressed into the putty so that the entire space between the glass and the bars is filled with putty.

After each pane has been set in place it should be secured to the bars by means of zinc glazing nails: one nail at the bottom to prevent the glass from slipping down, and two more nails driven into the bars at either side to hold the glass firmly to the putty.

After the glass has been secured, excess putty can be cut away flush with the glass inside and outside.

It is poor practice to 'face putty' or place fillets of putty along the outside joints, as is usually done in glazing a window sash in a building.

Any first-quality outside paint may be used for painting the greenhouse.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 09:44:00 +0000

Galvanized steel pipe or structural steel is ...

Galvanized steel pipe or structural steel is preferred for this purpose.

Where the initial cost is the main consideration, wood may be used, but it has a poor appearance and is likely to sag.

Roofing glass should be new and of good grade, since poor glass may interfere with the quality of the light.

Single-strength glass is suitable for use on the Pacific Coast or other localities where there are no snow loads or high winds to be guarded against.

Double-strength glass should be used in more severe climates.

Glass can be used in sizes from sixteen by eighteen inches to eighteen by twenty-four inches.

It should be installed by being laid with lapped joints similar to those of a shingle roof, except that the laps between should be only one-eighth to one-fourth of an inch.

Wider laps are not advisable because the capillary action in the space between the lapped surfaces will cause leakage.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 09:39:00 +0000

Cement, while not so popular, is almost ...

Cement, while not so popular, is almost as satisfactory and not so expensive.

The continuous moisture conditions the choice of material for the frame and equipment.

The wrong wood will rot and unprotected metal will rust.

Pine and other soft woods are definitely not usable, as many a misguided amateur, with his house disintegrating about him after a few short years, has found.

The constant damping necessary for the health of the plants causes rapid rot in the softer woods.

On the Pacific Coast the availability of redwood, with its resistance to damp and abuse, makes it the wood of choice.

In the East and Midwest, Red Gulf cypress is favored for the same reasons.

All metal used should be hot-dipped galvanized steel or brass in order to minimize corrosion.

While the nine-foot wide, two-bench greenhouse does not ordinarily require additional framework to support the roof, houses wider than this must be more substantial to carry the additional weight, prevent sagging of roof bars, and resist wind.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 09:34:00 +0000

It is often advisable to use a ...

It is often advisable to use a standard construction with one end attached to the building and with the ridge at right angles to the building, as this minimizes the difficulty of flashing at the building connections.

It should be borne in mind that the six-inch to one-foot roof pitch must also be provided for this type of greenhouse.

The best of construction plans may be frustrated by selection of unsuitable materials.

Orchidists of Europe and the British Empire have shown wisdom through their long orchid-raising experience by selecting only the most durable materials for greenhouse construction.

Materials must be durable and suitable in relation to the specific conditions necessary for orchid growing-again the balance of heat, humidity, and ventilation.

From the days when the name 'stove' was first applied to the hothouse, brick has been favored for sidewalls, not only because of its durability but equally because it holds the moisture and stays cool in summer and warm in winter.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 09:29:00 +0000

There are many types of design, but ...

There are many types of design, but the most economical and satisfactory is the so-called 'even span' type where the roof slopes uniformly down from both sides of a ridge to the eaves.

This slope should never be less than six inches vertical to one foot horizontal; a lesser slope will invariably cause leakage during rainy weather, and, instead of running down the glass, condensed moisture will drop from the glass on to the plants below.

If condensation grooves are milled in the sides of the bar supporting the roof glass, moisture condensing on the glass will be drawn off and destructive dripping prevented.

A lean-to construction, with the greenhouse attached to the building along the high point of the glass roof, is sometimes necessary.

In this case there are certain difficulties to be overcome.

It is difficult to make strictly weather-tight joints between a lean-to and the building that forms one wall.

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Sara — Thu, 31 Mar 2005 09:24:00 +0000

The greenhouse may be raised on piers ...

The greenhouse may be raised on piers to compensate for a hillside or it may be built in tiers with steps between.

The foundation proper, however, must be level and firm.

A good, level concrete foundation pays dividends in insuring firmness.

Settling causes cracks in the glass; cracks cause dripping; and drippings make for spotted flowers-the grower's tragedy.

Additional firmness can be gained by sinking eight- to ten-inch bolts into the wet concrete of the foundation, and then bolting the mudsill into place.

The next choice facing the amateur is between the home-built house and the many available sectional, ready-built greenhouses.

Prefabricated houses, while possibly more expensive, are easily erected and may save money by eliminating the mistakes prevalent in the trial-and-error method of design.

There is the additional advantage that prefabricated houses are movable, being bolted rather than nailed together.

Greenhouse manufacturers supply detailed plans and all materials for houses to be erected by the grower or a carpenter.

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